MAISON GRILLOU, CHAMBRES D'HOTES AND HOLIDAY ACCOMMODATION WITH A DIFFERENCE IN THE FRENCH PYRENEES

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There is a vibrant festival scene in Ariège through much of the year: far too much to list here (an annual guide «Ariège en Fête» is published every June and runs to over 80 pages). But to whet your appetite and give you a feel for what to expect, here are just a few of our own favourites.

spring

Easter: Swing Festival in Mirepoix. Three days of big band jazz in the medieval square, evening concerts and a giant omelette (1500 eggs) on the Monday. Great atmosphere even if you’re not a big fan of the music.

Early May: spring ‘foire’ at Tarascon. Lots of animals, lots of local food, various events (folklore, music, sheepdog displays etc) and a huge market that fills the entire town. On for two days.

Late May: Jazz’velanet jazz festival at Lavelanet. Three days of good jazz to kick off the season.

Late May into June: Festival d’Art Sacré du Couserans et de l’Ariège. Excellent festival celebrating sacred art in all its forms (song, music, theatre, visual art etc) that takes place in various local churches.

Early June: Transhumance in the Couserans. This is the age-old tradition, now revived, of moving cattle, sheep and horses by road and track up to the high altitude pastures for the summer. Lots of activities around this, including special meals, folklore, and the possibility of following the transhumance on foot or horseback.

summer: late june and july

21 June: Fête de la Musique. This is a big thing in France. The then Minister for Culture, Jack Lang, decreed that on the night of the summer solstice there should be music, and it should be widespread, available to all, and free. One of the biggest fêtes in the region is at St Girons; there are at least 60 groups playing from late afternoon until the early hours, thousands of visitors, and all the usual foodie accompaniments.

Last week of June: Les Feux de la Saint-Jean. Summer solstice festivals in many villages, all involving a fire and some food!

Festival Latino Fiesta in Pamiers, around the 14th July. Four days of salsa, flamenco, Cuban rhythms; some big name bands; a torchlight carnavale; fireworks; a craft market; and an entire tented village of bars, bodegas and world food restarants. The epitome of Fiesta, and very lively – last year it attracted over 150,000 visitors (more than the population of Ariège!).

Nuits Gallo-Romaines, St Lizier: guided nighttime walks around the medieval streets of the old cité, punctuated by all sorts of spectacles, encounters and surprises. Great fun. Several dates in July and August.

Vagabond’Arts at Baulou, a tiny village 20 minutes from here, around 14th July. Street theatre, all kinds of art, various spectacles and concerts.

Festival Celtie d’Oc, mid-July: two days of Celtic and Occitan music, dancing and games, at Cazavet: great craic.

Tour de France: passes through Ariège pretty much every year, often with a stage arrival or departure. In 2013, the 100th Tour, St Girons will be hosting a departure on Sunday 7 July, following the arrival of the previous day at Ax 3 Domaines. Watching the Tour is always a fantastic spectacle, whether or not you’re into cycling.

Festival Terre de Couleurs, Daumazan sur Arize. Two days of new and world music, street theatre, circus … feels like a kind of mini-Glastonbury Ariégeois!

Festival Latino Tarascon. A week of salsa, folklore and other concerts from around the world, a market, lama trips and, of course, lots of food.

Festival Trad’Estiu, Foix: three days of traditional Occitan music and culture.

 Les Mediévales, Mirepoix: four days devoted to everything medieval: music, ancient crafts, agriculture, and a grand procession.

Foix Jazz Festival: a week of fairly serious jazz concerts, with some big names of the jazz world.

Festival of St Lizier. Concerts, masterclasses and other events over a three week period, from late July into August, make up this rather prestigious chamber music festival. Many concerts take place in the gorgeous cathedral at St Lizier. Very atmospheric.

summer: august  

Festival “Rite” in St Girons and surrounding villages: a week of song, dance and music of the world. Around 300 artists from a dozen countries, performing in town and village squares, in bars and restaurants, and all together in the big exhibition centre in St Girons for the grande finale.

Autrefois Le Couserans: one of the ‘big’ festivals, attracting many thousands of visitors. Two days celebrating the old rural traditions of the Couserans valleys. The Sunday morning procession is unmissable.

Ingénieuse Afrique, Foix. Hugely popular festival of all things Africa; there are four concerts over three days, much dancing, an African market, workshops, exhibitions, African restaurants. We never miss this one!

Son et Lumière open air spectacle at Le Fossat; different every year but always tracing some facet of local peasant life in the valley.

Son et Lumière open air spectacle in Foix: also different every year – usually based around a timeline of events in Cathar Ariège.

Open air spectacle at Le Mas d’Azil, performed by local volunteer actors and based around life in the caves in the prehistoric era.

Foire Agricole, Le Mas d’Azil. A Sunday at the end of the month devoted to local agriculture – animals, food, crafts.

september

Foire Agricole, Rimont: a small-scale version in our own village at the feast of St Michel (Michaelmas), when the animals come down from the summer pastures. Food and craft market, vide grenier, animals, various animations and of course the traditional lunch.

Festival des Saveurs, Ax les Thermes. Two days celebrating Ariège’s local produce, those who produce it, and those who cook it. Lots of tastings and demonstrations.

Fête de la Noisette (hazelnut), Lavelanet. All sorts of events alongside the usual stands and market, over two days. Worth the trip.

october

Fête de la Figue, Le Mas d’Azil. Ditto, but this time celebrating figs rather than hazelnuts.

Ariège en Bio, St Lizier. A one day celebration of all things organic in Ariège, with presentations on organic growing and green building, a big market and a community space. Don’t miss lunch from the nomadic restaurant – it’s excellent.

Fête de la Pomme, Mirepoix. Two days centred around the apple; all sorts of the usual stalls, plus amazing (and fragrant) sculptures made entirely from different coloured apples.

december

Christmas markets in various towns – the one in St Girons, on the last Sunday before Christmas, has a nice atmosphere, various food and craft stalls with music, food, mulled wine and all the rest.

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